Balsam herbs, cocoa and sweet white smoke give way to crushed black cherry and plum as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is elegance, personified, silky, deep and round, yet delivering a core of saline-minerality that creates a savory sensation - umami, in a way - with masses of ripe red fruits and confectionary spices to contrast. The tannins are sweet and round, presenting a chiseled structure, yet it's not forceful. This tapers off with a tart twang of sour wild berries under an air of lavender and violets. Wow, there is so much concentration and depth here, but also balance. In fact, there's hardly a sign of this being from a difficult vintage. While I expect it will have a shorter life than an Uccelliera Brunello from a classic year, the 2017 should not be missed.

Cherry and plum fruit flavors are allied to mint, camphor and spice flavors in this dense, powerful red, which is lively and resonates on the finish with echoes of fruit, herbs and spices. Best from 2025 through 2042. 2,388 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.

This opens with aromas of mocha, cedar and tobacco. The compact palate offers baked plum, espresso and toasted hazelnut alongside assertive tannins. Drink 2023-2027.