Fresh, bright and engaging, with damson plum, raspberry and cherry pâte de fruit notes bouncing along, laced with red licorice details and backed by a light Black Forest cake accent on the juicy finish. This seems like it's all fruit but the lovely cut and floral persistence through the finish imparts an elegant hint. Drink now through 2033. 5,833 cases made.

From the team at Canon-la-Gaffelière, the 2016 Clos de L'Oratoire is a winner based on 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc raised in 45% new French oak. It's a ripe yet structured Saint-Emilion that has terrific minerality in its black raspberry and cassis fruits as well as notes of chocolate, tobacco, and subtle oak. A terrific wine, it needs 4-5 years of bottle age to shine, but is capable of keeping for 15-20 years.

The 2016 Clos de l'Oratoire did not show well out of barrel but finally appears more knitted together. It has one of the most discreet aromatic profiles of the flight, featuring dark berry fruit with perfumed incense and iris, all very focused and harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. This feels bold and structured yet retains balance and delineation. It deserves a much higher score. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.