The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a fresh display of bright cherry and raspberries complemented by rosy florals and hints of worn leather. This is fleshy and flamboyant, offering ripe berries and plums accentuated by balsam herbs. The 2017 maintains wonderful energy through the finale, tapering off only lightly structured, while leaving hints of licorice and tart cranberry to linger. This is already drinking very nicely, but it also has the balance for short-term cellaring.

Aromas of tilled soil, cassis and spice emerge from the glass. The ripe, approachable palate offers black cherry jam, star anise and clove alongside smooth tannins. Drink through 2027.