This has the vivid, driven cassis, boysenberry and blackberry fruit of the vintage, but it's well-harnessed, with streaks of racy anise, alder and sweet bay leaf providing focus and precision. There's a long echo of iron and savory through the finish as the fruit lingers, leaving a mouthwatering feel. Understated in style compared with its colleagues, but no less complex. Best from 2022 through 2038. 2,400 cases made.

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is sourced from choice blocks on the Groth family's Oakville property. A gorgeous, classically built wine, the Reserve is just fabulous today. Dark red-toned fruit, cedar, spice and mocha lend considerable energy as the 2018 gradually opens in the glass. I would be in no rush here.