The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a heady, explosive wine. I don't think I have ever tasted an Ovello from the Produttori with this much heft. The strong mineral and saline accents typical of this site are present, but they are matched pound for pound by notable mid-palate richness and intensity in its fruit. The 2017 is a brooding powerhouse that needs time to unwind.

Taut and sinewy, boasting cherry, black currant, grass, iron and tar notes. Powerful tannins drive the finish, which is compact for now. In the end, this is lightly astringent, but has plenty of drive and should find equilibrium with time. Best from 2026 through 2043. 1,580 cases made, 350 cases imported.

Menthol, star anise and blue flower aromas mingle with botanical herb. The full-bodied palate recalls cherry extract, licorice, fruitcake and baking spice alongside densely woven, fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2029.